Winter SUP expedition on the river Merkys
Location: Dzūkija nacional park, Puvočiai
River: Merkys
Distance: 13 km
Duration: 4 h (with preparations and packing )
Winter arrived unexpectedly early, just as we were about to dry our paddleboards after our autumn excursions. The initial snowfall and freezing temperatures provided an excellent chance to test our gear in winter settings. Consequently, a small group of enthusiasts and I organized a hike in Merkias. We faced an unexplored stretch—from Puvočiai to Merkinė.
Late Saturday afternoon, we met in Merkinė and headed to the planned finish line, at the bridge over the Nemunas River. We left one car at the finish line and together set off for the start line, near the village of Puvočiai.
Upon reaching the start line, we begin readying our gear: we inflate our paddleboards, which serves as an excellent warm-up before beginning. We retrieve our oars, ropes, and life jackets from our cars. Additionally, we bring along dry bags containing essential items for winter swimming:
dry clothes (though the likelihood of falling off the board is minimal, it's important to have appropriate attire that enables you to keep swimming if it does occur);
chocolate for energy (in cold weather swimming, the body expends energy for both movement, like rowing, and maintaining warmth, making chocolate, energy bars, or similar snacks essential in winter);
warm tea.
All the preparations, including jokes, taking photos for memories, selecting a suitable landing spot, and descending into the river, took about an hour. At last, our entire team is in the middle of Merkys. As soon as we departed from the shore, we were all captivated by the mesmerizing beauty of nature. The scene is breathtaking: the banks are blanketed with soft snow, tree branches are turning white, light clouds drift in the sky, and the sun peeks out from behind the forest.
In this area, the Merkys, fueled by its tributaries, flows rapidly. Thanks to the swift current, we quickly cover the first 4 kilometers. We pause for a picnic on the water: seated on our paddle boards, we bring out a thermos of steaming tea and chocolates. Enjoying the scenery, we warm up, recharge our energy, and get ready to resume our swim. Following this tea ritual, we stand up and proceed toward our destination – Merkinė.
We glide past homesteads nestled between forests and river bends, each with lights glowing in the windows, snow-laden roofs, and smoke rising from chimneys—a winter scene fit for a postcard. Often, our varied conversations during the swim are paused by exclamations of “wow!” or “how beautiful!” The bare trees expose the riverbanks, offering excellent visibility from the board. This part of the river valley is quite winding, with high banks, some covered in meadows, and the steep slopes adorned with the pine forests of Dzūkija.
On the left bank, we observe three roe deer that have approached the river in the evening to seek water. Upon spotting our group, they swiftly turned and vanished into the forest depths. Shortly after, we encounter a family of swans that, ignoring our presence, glide past us serenely.
The sky is painted red by the setting sun, and the river reflects this hue. A light mist arises as the water evaporates. We swim towards an impressive cliff, behind which the river bends, marking our farewell to the sun. On the other side, the moon emerges, evening descends, and we all sense that this remarkable journey is nearing its conclusion.
To the left, we encounter a large white dome, glowing from within, reminiscent of a Christmas house from fairy tales. As we approach, we realize it is the renowned Merkinė Pyramid. With no visitors in sight and spurred by the evening chill, we quicken our swimming pace. A few more turns and we enter the Nemunas, revealing the majestic valley of the river's father. After swimming several hundred meters, we arrive at the finish line.
The paddleboards quickly become covered in a thin layer of ice from the cold. Every team member is grinning widely. While sipping our tea, we all agree that this was probably the most incredible SUP adventure we've ever had. The landscape is indescribable, as if we had entered the most magical Christmas fairy tale.
Merkys is truly a winter river. It has no barriers that require you to leave the board, and the river is both wide and shallow. The leafless trees uncover stunning vistas that are not visible during the summer. Moreover, it's just an hour's drive from Vilnius.
We deflated the paddleboards and, while packing our equipment into the car, we’re already discussing future adventures. We have plenty of ideas, are keeping an eye on the weather, and will soon share our plans for the next expedition with you.
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